Helen Deng

DRAPED along the spine of the Himalayas, Nepal is a land of sublime scenery, time-worn temples, and some of the best hiking trails on the earth. Rich in natural and cultural treasures, it is widely regarded as the heaven for hikers.

A tour of Nepal usually starts from the capital Kathmandu, which is only about four hours by air from Hong Kong. Yet once you arrive at the simple, red-brick Kathmandu airport, you will find yourself in a totally different world, a world simultaneously reeking of history and the encroaching wear and tear of the modern world.

The area where most travelers stay, Thamel, is full of hotels, restaurants and hawkers. The old city, though, is still studded with ageless temples and splendid architecture. Most women wear the traditional sari.

The center of the old city, the Dubar Square (in Nepali Dubar means Old Palace), is a must-visit in Kathmandu. It is a huddle of temples and shrines with intricately carved roofs, doors and windows. Numerous birds swirl on the square, as if answering calls from gods. The architecture is strikingly beautiful; yet to fully understand every building, you need to do some research on Hinduism beforehand.

An hour-long walk from the Dubar Square to Thamel will take you through a couple of century-old streets that are densely lined by shops selling handicrafts, clothes, food, groceries. While a walk along the narrow, crowded streets offers you a vivid picture of local life, you can also find and buy local woodwork, metalwork, and handicrafts created with ancient tools and techniques. Just don’t forget to bargain.

If you don’t like the hustle-bustle of Kathmandu, Baktabur, a town about one hour’s drive from Kathmandu, is an excellent alternative. Baktabur is a quiet, clean medieval town with exquisite temples and streets. At Baktabur, life is so calm that a marriage ceremony can cause excitement among the town’s residents. Unlike the Dubar Square in Kathmandu, the Dubar Square of Baktabur is free from beggars, hawkers, and animals, but the architecture is equally beautiful.

Another must-visit place in Nepal is Pokhara, a city at the foot of the Himalayan ranges and seven hours by bus from Kathmandu. Pokhara is popular not only because it is the starting point of some of the best trekking trails in the Himalayas, but also because of its own beauty. With a millpond calm lake in the city center and surrounded by snow-capped mountains whose peaks are reflected in the lake, the city is dubbed “Oriental Switzerland.” There are plenty of things to do in Pokhara: paragliding, kayaking, mountain biking, yoga, and, last but not least, shopping.

After a couple of days in Pokhara, you will be tempted to stay on in the city and forget about trekking. But the trekking is rewarding indeed.

Popular trekking trails last four to 21 days, with some taking travelers to a maximum height of over 5,000 meters. The trails pass through several interesting villages and cultures, and the scenery is also very spectacular. The most famous scenic spot is the 3,200-meter peak of Poon Hill, from where you can get a look at the panoramic Himalayas including the snow-capped Machhapuchhre, Annapurna and giant Dhawalagiri.

At Pokhara you can hire a porter and a guide to accompany you, but you can easily trek alone with a map. There are lodges all along the route so there’s no need to carry a big load. Most of the lodges have electricity and hot showers, but the food is not good. So when you find chicken or pork on the menu, don’t give it a miss.