Song Yingwen

THE newly opened Coastal City Mall in Nanshan District definitely has more to offer than Shenzhen’s third indoor ice-skating rink, a galaxy of international fashion brands, cinemas and Jusco. It is also presenting itself as a new restaurant hub.

Of all the eating houses in the mall, the Golden Spoon Taiwanese Restaurant catches one’s attention for two reasons: the favorable position and its alluring Chinese name.

Located on the fourth floor, the two-story Golden Spoon offers an all-embracing view of the skating arena, allowing visitors to sip their coffee or tea while watching their friends gliding around the rink through large ceiling-to-floor windows.

The Chinese name, which literally means “Golden Spoon Taiwanese Private Kitchen” (金汤匙台湾私房菜), attracts not only afficionados of Taiwan cuisine but also those who have grown tired of banquets and feel like some home-made dishes.

The restaurant is, of course, a much more luxurious place than most private kitchens. The wood and metal decoration is simple but modern, with the yellow glow from the chandeliers and chairs with light brown linen covers adding a warm feeling.

Although the restaurant brand is Taiwanese, the menue varies from Taiwanese to Sichuan and Thai. As well as the typical Taiwan-style braised pork rice (28 yuan, US$3.73), dishes such as oysters with black bean sauce on an iron skillet (42 yuan), sautéed pork kidney with sesame sauce (78 yuan) and dry shrimps and bean curd (42 yuan) are said to be the preferred choices. Fresh ingredients ensure that the sweetness of the oysters stand out through the strong flavor of the black bean sauce after being cooked on an iron skillet. Even with very light seasoning, salt and sesame sauce, the tender pork kidney taste is mild.

For those who prefer strongly flavored meat, they should try the pork shank braised in soy sauce (98 yuan).

The braised pork leg was scrumptious and was braised to perfection with the meat practically falling off the bone.

Sichuan dishes are also popular. The red pepper chicken (48 yuan) we ordered was hot and spicy enough to satisfy even the most critical lover of spicy food. The fish with hot chili pepper (58 yuan) also deserves a try for its pleasant, pungent taste.

A pleasant surprise at the Golden Spoon was that it even has something to offer for vegetarians.

A subsidiary of the Taiwan Blue Bird Cafe, a franchise that has outlets in Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Dongguan, the Golden Spoon also offers quality drinks and sweet treats between meals, which makes the restaurant a nice retreat after long hours of shopping.

Although visitors won’t be greeted by the owner of the restaurant as they are in most private kitchens, the service is generally good. Menus are in Chinese and acceptable English, with pictures giving diners some idea of the food available. Waitresses are attentive but not all are able to communicate in English. The restaurant charges a 10 percent service fee.