
IN the neighborhood around The MIXc shopping mall, affordable food is not so easy to come by. French, Thai and other international cuisines tempt visitors with an array of tantalizing flavors, but of course it comes at a price. Aside from the food court, there is not much to offer for those who are hungry and on a budget. However, just a short stroll away, one can find a gem of a restaurant sure to satisfy the appetite without burning a hole in your pocket.
Catty-corner north of Diwang Mansion awaits the Lanzhou Authentic Noodles Restaurant. Nestled in a pocket set back from the street by about 20 meters, the restaurant might be described as a “hole in the wall,” save for the canopied tables that spill out onto the terrace for customers to sit outside. However, it’s much more than a mere hole in the wall.
Lanzhou refers to the capital of Gansu Province, a place that most foreigners might recognize as the beautiful and pristine home of Jackie Chan in the hit comedy “Around the World in 80 Days.” Now, it’s one of the most polluted cities in the world, but its food is among the most unique in China.
We have all had plenty of the popular Sichuan, Guangdong, and Northeast cuisines, so Gansu’s cuisine presents a new chance to expand our experience with Chinese food. Based on staple crops such as wheat, barley, and millet, it is well-known in China for its lamian (pulled noodles). Although the restaurant’s name might suggest the food is exclusively from Gansu, dishes from Qinghai and Xinjiang are also featured as their cuisines are quite similar.
Although there is no English menu, the restaurant has a large colored picture menu on the wall, in which dishes are easily recognizable. At the centerpiece of this big poster is the famous Xinjiang dapanji (big plate chicken), which the owners claim is the most popular dish. Of course, the pulled noodles are a big hit with customers, especially during lunch hour when a seat is hard to find. A fellow diner found them to be “a good bowl of noodles for the price” at only seven yuan (US$1).
Vegetarians should take note that there isn’t much available for them, although the cooks will gladly prepare most dishes without meat. The spicy fried noodles, which I have eaten more than a few times, is a sizable and satisfying dish with thick, substantial noodles, although it’s a bit more oily than I would care for and has recently increased in price from seven to 10 yuan.
Worth mentioning is the BBQ that is available after 5 p.m. every night. This is especially convenient for BBQ lovers, as street vendors don’t set up until later in the night, usually around 10 p.m. However, I must say there have been several times when my doujiao (green beans) came out singed and more than slightly blackened. On the upside, they were replaced free of charge.
The restaurant is a popular choice with expatriates, who can be seen there almost every day. One named Ramin Razavifar, a businessman from Iran, eats there at least once a week. “I like this food because it’s somewhat similar to that in my home country”, he said. Like Iran, many people in Gansu are Muslim. Owing to this religious influence, you won’t find any pork at the restaurant, nor do they sell alcohol.
Although the restaurant name stems from the capital of Gansu, the owners come from Qinghai Province. A big family by the name of He, it’s hard not to catch them smiling with joy as they do their work: pulling noodles, serving food, and often chatting with customers. Having lived in Shenzhen for three years, they took over from the former owners one month ago.
So, if you find yourself near Diwang or The MIXc in search of tasty and affordable food, don’t forget Lanzhou Authentic Noodles. Although not perfect, as another fellow diner said, “The food’s good and the price is right. How can you beat it?”
Friendly staff making pulled noodles.
Ramin Razavifar (R) and a friend have lunch outdoors under the shade.
The classic Lanzhou pulled noodles.
Spicy fried noodles.