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首页>>Travel>>本页
Shunde:A microcosm of China
    2008年04月07日  08:13    Shenzhen Daily

Jesse Warren

ASK any expat to name a famous Chinese figure, and you will likely get one of two responses: Bruce Lee or Jackie Chan. Thanks to their amazing talent, not to mention their Hollywood exploits, these two actors are famous around the world. What does this have to do with travel? Both actors trace their roots to Guangdong, and their hometowns are both great travel destinations.

Jackie Chan was born in Hong Kong, and most of us have been there many times before; so we can save it for later. Bruce Lee was born in San Francisco and raised in Hong Kong, but his ancestral homeland can be found in a small district in a small city outside Guangzhou: Shunde.

Located in the city of Foshan, just two hours by bus from Shenzhen, Shunde makes a great weekend getaway for those interested in a unique taste of Cantonese culture. Overshadowed by Guangzhou, its larger neighbor to the north, Shunde is often overlooked as a travel destination, but for no good reason.

In recent years, Shunde has made much of its connection to Bruce Lee. There is a street named after the martial arts star, a small museum, and his family’s ancestral home. Just two years ago, construction began on the Bruce Lee Theme Park, which will feature a 19-meter-high statue of the star, along with a memorial hall, martial arts training school, roller coaster, and much more. All of this despite the fact that Lee only paid one fleeting visit to Shunde at the age of 5. The park is not yet complete, but will surely make headlines when ready for the public.

Aside from Shunde’s claim to Bruce Lee’s legacy, there is much more to see in this off-the-radar location just south of Guangzhou. Perhaps the best way to describe Shunde is to say that it’s all of China rolled up into one place; a messy cornucopia of all things that make up the varied social, historical, economic, and ecological fabric of the country.

An extended, meandering bike ride on my initial visit first gave me this impression, and the diversity of what I saw has always struck me upon each return visit. Setting off from a small factory located in the “countryside,” we passed more small factories, interspersed by banana farms, construction projects, and flyovers. Just a few miles down the road was a towering shopping mall looking as if it had been transplanted from an American suburb.

In the other direction, we found small traditional villages, seemingly untouched by modern times. One of them was inhabited almost exclusively by young migrant workers from Guangxi who came to work in a watch factory. A couple of miles beyond this we found a gated community of luxury homes with swimming pools and tennis courts.

From there, we turned down a riverfront promenade. In the distance, high-rises graced the horizon as oxen grazed in the green grass along the river where several girls washed clothing under the setting sun. Further along, a large suspension bridge under construction towered over another traditional village. Around every corner was a new surprise. For those who like to wander, to discover, and to explore, Shunde will not disappoint.

The city is also not without its official attractions. The Qinghui Gardens, a preserved complex of pavilions, gardens, ponds, pagodas and courtyards dating back to the Ming Dynasty, was well worth the time spent there relaxing. Other scenic and historic sites, such as reconstructed temples and “mountains” that barely reach 100 meters in height, are worthwhile for their glimpses into local history, but are a dime a dozen. It’s probably safe to say that official attractions are not the strength of Shunde. It’s the kind of place that inspires curiosity and exploration of the real living culture of a nation on the move.

One thing you will certainly want to explore in Shunde is the food. It is often said that while the best food comes from Guangdong, the best cooks come from Shunde. Ginger milk (姜汁撞奶), a sweet, pudding-like dessert, is probably the most famous dish of the region, and not to be missed. I can say with certainty that the ginger milk I’ve drunk here in Shenzhen pales in comparison to that in Shunde. Small dessert shops are popular with locals, and should be on the checklist of any food lover traveling in Shunde.

To be fair, Shunde is not as picture perfect nor as historically rich as other cities in Guangdong. It has extremes of poverty and wealth, pollution and beauty, migrants and locals, farms and factories, villages and skyscrapers. This contrasting diversity is part of what makes Shunde fascinating. Development is making big changes to the region.

There are many stories to be told, things to learn, and places to explore. If you are at all interested in China, you can see nearly all of it in Shunde, or at least a glimpse.

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